Photo by Paulius Gasiunas
The duo of Aleksandras Pogrebnojus and Vida Simanaviciute can be regarded as pioneers of intellectual fashion in the history of Lithuanian fashion. Two creative personalities that incidentally got together in 1993 became a mutually inspiring partners working under the name of A&V. This creative partnership is known for its eccentric character, distinct personal style and unconventional lifestyle.
The strength of the partnership of Vida Simanaviciute and Aleksandras Pogrebnojus lies in its duality: different and at the same time similar, influencing each other like complementary opposites In and Yang, they create exquisite avant-garde collections and expressive shows. Vida Simanavičiūtė acquired her creative fundamentals during her fashion design studies at Kaunas School of Applied Arts (1984-1988), Aleksandras Pogrebnojus – while studying theatre management at Vilnius Conservatoire (1989-1992). Yet, the spirit that is beeing reflected by A&V collections for the past decade cannot be learned at any art school. Inexhaustible creative ideas come first of all from the inborn talent, unconventional thinking, different approach to the past, present and future.
Every year A&V present two seasonal collections in their country as well as in the fashion weeks in Russia, France, Japan, Austria and international fairs of fashion design. Crossing the boundaries of Lithuania and being in constant contact with the global fashion markets enabled bringing the authentic national style combined with cosmopolitan trends to the attention of the reviewers of international media, and the clothes by A&V appeared on the covers and in editorial photo sessions of Vogue(Japan), Harpers Bazaar, Elle, L‘Oficciel, Glamour next to the most prominent names of the fashion world.
A&V were one of the first in Lithuania to find the formula of success and recognition – to cherish individuality, creatively exploit the heritage of authentic traditions, always stay one step ahead and, importantly, not to try to please the masses. The statement of good taste in their work is not just empty words; it has been supported by constantly upheld aesthetics defined by the synthesis of refined minimalism, harmony, reserved luxury and measured offhandedness.
The exceptional design of A&V clothes is created by the harmony of forms, lines, colours and moods. The silhouettes of the clothes do not submit to the temptations of one-day trends, the short-lived impression is sacrificed for the sake of long-term aesthetic solutions that stand the test of time. Designers look into the psychology of the client, his needs and feelings – trying to understand him, but not pandering, rather developing his intellectual approach to the fashion. The garment should first of all serve the person who will be wearing it, and the designers’ ideas can be expressed and the effect achieved by organising impressive presentations of the collections in untraditional spaces – in the park where a rivulet serves as a catwalk, in the garage, church, cinema, etc.
Aleksandras Pogrebnojus and Vida Simanaviciute create both for men and women. Collection for men marked the beginning of the creative work of this tandem, followed by several mixed collections and only in autumn/winter 2008 collection they paid the tribute to the neglected men’s fashion in Lithuania. On the other hand, in their work, the standards of gender, age or beauty are overshadowed by the charm of personality, strong character, and charisma. Most famous Lithuanian models – Margarita Svegzdaite, Aiste Jasaityte, Dovile Virsilaite, actress Jurgita Jutaite, singer Jurga Seduikyte – who represent the image created by A&V, reflect the entirety of intellectual, unique, elegant personality.
The woman of A&V collections is different every season – playful infantile girl, combative career woman, a romantic dwelling in the past or an exquisite lady who switched from gloves and hats to the rocker style. From time to time, the duo remembers the women of the past decades – post-war intellectual or an actress that did not catch her fame in the eighties. Design solutions are dictated by the encounter of the past and present: authentically interpreted elements of classics, modernised retro stylistics, tamed wild militaristic style and adopted ethnic elements of various nations.
The intellectual aesthetics of A&V does not entirely rely on the rationality: humorous approach to fashion is expressed by unexpected streak of playfulness: many remember the dress from 2004 collection decorated with stylized drawings of …sausages or an elegant handbag resembling a book cover. Ironic criticism of modern priorities purports the nostalgia for genuine forgotten values. Longing for the genuine also manifests in cosy natural fabrics – fluttering silk, soft wool, cotton or quality tweed.
The tandem of Pogrebnojus and Simanaviciute employs two colour ranges: vivid, pure colours matched on the basis of contract are counterbalanced by quiet earthy tones. The virtuosity of A&V is expressed by combining matted fabrics with the shiny ones: the mother-of-pearl shine here becomes a subtle undertone of the colour. Carefully selected colour palette is invigorated by the special graphics of the folds and expressive colourful details. Handbags, shoes, belts, hats and other accessories serve as a fanciful signature which gives the finishing touch to the outfit in A&V style.
The design of A&V clothes essentially conform to the principles of haute couture: major input of handiwork and tailoring the garment according to the individual measurements of the client elevate casual clothes above the mass production of prźt-a-porter.
The strength of the partnership of Vida Simanaviciute and Aleksandras Pogrebnojus lies in its duality: different and at the same time similar, influencing each other like complementary opposites In and Yang, they create exquisite avant-garde collections and expressive shows. Vida Simanavičiūtė acquired her creative fundamentals during her fashion design studies at Kaunas School of Applied Arts (1984-1988), Aleksandras Pogrebnojus – while studying theatre management at Vilnius Conservatoire (1989-1992). Yet, the spirit that is beeing reflected by A&V collections for the past decade cannot be learned at any art school. Inexhaustible creative ideas come first of all from the inborn talent, unconventional thinking, different approach to the past, present and future.
Every year A&V present two seasonal collections in their country as well as in the fashion weeks in Russia, France, Japan, Austria and international fairs of fashion design. Crossing the boundaries of Lithuania and being in constant contact with the global fashion markets enabled bringing the authentic national style combined with cosmopolitan trends to the attention of the reviewers of international media, and the clothes by A&V appeared on the covers and in editorial photo sessions of Vogue(Japan), Harpers Bazaar, Elle, L‘Oficciel, Glamour next to the most prominent names of the fashion world.
A&V were one of the first in Lithuania to find the formula of success and recognition – to cherish individuality, creatively exploit the heritage of authentic traditions, always stay one step ahead and, importantly, not to try to please the masses. The statement of good taste in their work is not just empty words; it has been supported by constantly upheld aesthetics defined by the synthesis of refined minimalism, harmony, reserved luxury and measured offhandedness.
The exceptional design of A&V clothes is created by the harmony of forms, lines, colours and moods. The silhouettes of the clothes do not submit to the temptations of one-day trends, the short-lived impression is sacrificed for the sake of long-term aesthetic solutions that stand the test of time. Designers look into the psychology of the client, his needs and feelings – trying to understand him, but not pandering, rather developing his intellectual approach to the fashion. The garment should first of all serve the person who will be wearing it, and the designers’ ideas can be expressed and the effect achieved by organising impressive presentations of the collections in untraditional spaces – in the park where a rivulet serves as a catwalk, in the garage, church, cinema, etc.
Aleksandras Pogrebnojus and Vida Simanaviciute create both for men and women. Collection for men marked the beginning of the creative work of this tandem, followed by several mixed collections and only in autumn/winter 2008 collection they paid the tribute to the neglected men’s fashion in Lithuania. On the other hand, in their work, the standards of gender, age or beauty are overshadowed by the charm of personality, strong character, and charisma. Most famous Lithuanian models – Margarita Svegzdaite, Aiste Jasaityte, Dovile Virsilaite, actress Jurgita Jutaite, singer Jurga Seduikyte – who represent the image created by A&V, reflect the entirety of intellectual, unique, elegant personality.
The woman of A&V collections is different every season – playful infantile girl, combative career woman, a romantic dwelling in the past or an exquisite lady who switched from gloves and hats to the rocker style. From time to time, the duo remembers the women of the past decades – post-war intellectual or an actress that did not catch her fame in the eighties. Design solutions are dictated by the encounter of the past and present: authentically interpreted elements of classics, modernised retro stylistics, tamed wild militaristic style and adopted ethnic elements of various nations.
The intellectual aesthetics of A&V does not entirely rely on the rationality: humorous approach to fashion is expressed by unexpected streak of playfulness: many remember the dress from 2004 collection decorated with stylized drawings of …sausages or an elegant handbag resembling a book cover. Ironic criticism of modern priorities purports the nostalgia for genuine forgotten values. Longing for the genuine also manifests in cosy natural fabrics – fluttering silk, soft wool, cotton or quality tweed.
The tandem of Pogrebnojus and Simanaviciute employs two colour ranges: vivid, pure colours matched on the basis of contract are counterbalanced by quiet earthy tones. The virtuosity of A&V is expressed by combining matted fabrics with the shiny ones: the mother-of-pearl shine here becomes a subtle undertone of the colour. Carefully selected colour palette is invigorated by the special graphics of the folds and expressive colourful details. Handbags, shoes, belts, hats and other accessories serve as a fanciful signature which gives the finishing touch to the outfit in A&V style.
The design of A&V clothes essentially conform to the principles of haute couture: major input of handiwork and tailoring the garment according to the individual measurements of the client elevate casual clothes above the mass production of prźt-a-porter.